September 29, 2009 on 5:47 pm

Whether your carpets need spot cleaning for a stain or a full cleaning throughout the house, you are likely interested in using a product that is safe for kids or pets and is environmentally friendly.
HOST® is the leading dry extraction carpet cleaning method that will meet all of these requirements! HOST is Green Seal Certified, non-toxic and reduces allergans, such as dust mites, mold and pet dander, by up to 85%. HOST is recommended by carpet manufacturers, produces better results than wet cleaning systems, lifts and refreshes matted carpet pile, leaves carpets smelling fresh and ready to use right after cleaning. I’ve been using this system as long as I’ve been in the flooring business and this is the carpet cleaning system I use in my home.
The system works by brushing the HOST Sponges Cleaner (which comes in a shaker pack for spot cleaning or larger pack for overall cleaning) into the carpet with the hand-held brush for small areas or the brushing machine for large areas. The cleaner dissolves, absorbs and traps soil, spots and odors as it cleans then you vacuum. This low-moisture process is proven to reduce Dust mites by 78%, Dust Mite Allergen by 75%, Cat Allergen by 85%, Mold Spores by 85% (EPA Establishment No. 074202-WI-001).
The HOST Dry Carpet & Rug Cleaning Kit will get you started with everything you’ll need for spot cleaning small spills and stains from your carpet. When you use the consumables in the kit, it’s easy to order individual replacements. Shaker packs come in two sizes- 2.5 lb. Dry Carpet Cleaner Shaker Pack or 1.1 lb. Emergency Dry Carpet Cleaner Pack. Pre-Cleaner Spray is available in a 7.5oz Pre-Cleaner
Spray Bottle. It’s a good idea to keep these products on hand for unexpected spills and stains.
Using HOST for an entire room or house of carpet will require a larger package of HOST Dry Carpet Cleaner, 6 lb Box (for approx 500sf) or 12 lb Box (for approx 1,000sf). To determine your square footage (sf) simply measure the width and length of each room that needs carpet cleaning and multiply width x length = square feet for each room. To use this product, you’ll need to rent a HOST brushing machine from a local HOST retailer. You’ll use this machine to brush the cleaner into the carpet before vacuuming. In Delaware, call 1-877-floorguy for rental. Outside Delaware, use this link, http://hostcarpetcleaning.com/diyRetail.htm to locate a HOST retailer near you.

You may wonder how HOST compares to steam carpet cleaning methods. HOST is found to be easier to use, requires no mixing or use of water, leaves carpets dry reducing mold and mold spores, no drying time required before walking on rugs, safe for use on all types of carpet (including wool), carpets stay cleaner longer and look better because the carpet pile doesn’t get matted down. Using HOST in commercial buildings contributes to points earned for maintaining building LEED certification because of it’s environmentally responsible process.

September 22, 2009 on 4:04 pm
Pull back the old carpet in your home and, surprise… old wood floors! Condition is good overall but in need of cleaning. What’s the most cost effective way to get the floor looking good? How can residue, left by the carpet pad or backing, be removed? Is this a DIY project? Will messy sanding and finishing be required? Does a professional need to be hired?

All good questions! To determine your best action plan, you must know the type of finish that is on your wood floor. Though most wood floors installed prior to 1970 are finished with wax while most installed after that have been finished with urethane, this is a generalization so don’t rely on age alone to determine the type of finish. Here’s a simple test to conduct…
Put a drop of water on the floor and let it dry. If the spot dries into a white, pasty color you are dealing with a Wax finish on your floor. If the spot leaves just a watermark and does not discolor the wood then you are dealing with Urethane.

To decide if your floors need to be completely sanded and refinished or simply cleaned and polished, take a broad look at your floor. Do you see grey streaks in the wood? If you do, consider a sand & finish job done by a local professional. The wood gets its grey color where the finish has worn completely. Sanding is the only way to bring back the natural wood color in these areas. If you are pleased with the overall appearance of your floor except for the dull finish and carpet pad markings, then a cleaning & finishing is all it needs. Follow one of the following sets of instructions depending on the type of finish on your wood floor – wax or urethane. Both processes can be done as DIY projects with excellent results.

Waxed wood floors should be treated with a one-product process that waxes and cleans. Wood that has a light or natural finish will do well with “Bruce Lite ‘n’ Natural” Liquid Paste Wax with Cleaner – 32 oz. can. For a dark wood floor use “Bruce Dark ‘n’ Rich” Liquid Paste Wax with Cleaner – 32 oz. can.
To get started you’ll need to rent or purchase a buffer machine. Large, heavy weight buffing machines will produce a higher sheen than small lightweight machines so choose the buffer based on your desired results and your ability to maneuver this piece of equipment. Before getting started with the wax, sweep, vacuum or dust mop the floor to remove all loose dirt. Loose particles left on the floor will scratch the wood and become ground into the floor’s surface marring the results. Apply the Liquid Paste Wax with Cleaner and buff. When the job is complete be sure to allow enough drying time before walking on the floor. High humidity climates may require more drying time than standard. The surface should be dry, not tacky, when it’s ready for traffic. To maintain the waxed wood floor, sweep frequently with a soft bristle broom and wipe up spills immediately. Small soils can be cleaned using a Bruce Scrub Pad with a small amount of “Bruce Lite ‘n’ Natural” Liquid Paste Wax with Cleaner – 32 oz. can or “Bruce Dark ‘n’ Rich” Liquid Paste Wax with Cleaner – 32 oz. can then buff with a clean cloth. Repeat the waxing/buffing process every 6 months to a year. Never use water or water-based cleaners on a waxed wood floor because it will damage the finish.

Urethane wood floors require a completely different process. No machines required. Start with the Bona X Ultimate Hardwood Floor Care System & Refresher Kit. This kit contains refresher with applicator pad, spray cleaner and wood floor mop with covers. The directions on the box will take you through step by step. Thoroughly sweep the floor before getting started and use the water-based, non-toxic spray cleaner before applying Refresher. Apply spray cleaner to one small area, 4’x6’, at a time, mopping with the grain of the wood, applying pressure on the mop to remove stuck on dirt. If your floor feels sticky after mopping then you haven’t rubbed enough with the mop or you’ve sprayed too large an area and the cleaner dried before being mopped thoroughly. Just go over the area again to clean. Apply the Refresher the same way, one small area at a time and stay with the grain of the wood. Allow enough drying time after applying the Refresher, keeping in mind that more humid conditions may require longer than standard drying time.
To maintain your Urethane wood floors on a regular basis, use a water-based, non-toxic cleaner. Bona (New & Improved Professional Series) Hardwood Floor Cleaner (a 32 oz bottle is included in the Refresher Kit) or Basic Squeaky –Wood and Laminate Floor Cleaner will both do a great job. Each of these liquid cleaners is available in a range of sizes. It is convenient to have a 32 oz refillable spray bottle of the cleaner and economical to buy the gallon for refilling your spray bottle. You’ll need a wood floor mop with microfiber cover (Bona includes this in their Refresher Kit), available from both lines of product, Bona X Swedish Microfiber Mop Package or Basic Squeaky Clean Floor Care System.
Bona also has an easy Bona Hardwood Spray Floor Mop that has spray cleaner and mop all in one with refill cartridges that just pop into the mop. I use this in my home and love the convenience!
Wood Refresher can be used on your urethane wood floors every six months to a year depending on the amount of traffic your floor gets and how often you sweep and mop. When the finish starts to look dull, the refresher actually fills minor scratches and allows light to reflect on the floor as a flat surface again giving it a brighter appearance.

If your goal is to completely change the gloss or sheen on your urethane wood floor, such as matte to high-gloss, call a professional. The existing finish will need to be screened and coated to change the sheen level and this is not typically a DIY project.

Important Note for ALL types of wood floors: Protect your wood floor from dents and scratches created by furniture sitting or moving on the floor by applying Floor Protectors to the feet and base of all furniture. Equinox makes pads and glides in many shapes and sizes to fit all types of furniture.

Enjoy your newly discovered wood floors!
September 17, 2009 on 5:49 pm

To keep your Hardwood Floors looking great NEVER…
1. Sweep with a stiff bristled broom. Use only soft, fine bristle broom to avoid scratching the surface. Sweep often to keep dirt from being ground into the floor’s finish.
2. Use hard rubber brush or plastic vacuum attachments to clean your floor. Use only a soft brush attachment.
3. Let a wet spill sit for “a while”. Water is a wood floors worst enemy! Wipe up spills promptly and dry the area thoroughly.
4. Let too much time go between vacuuming area rugs or carpet runners. Frequent vacuuming prevents dirt from filtering down through the weave and scratching the floor beneath.
5. Allow anyone to wear spike high heel shoes, shoes with cleats or taps, heavy wooden heeled shoes or any “worn” shoes with exposed metal or sharp parts. These types of shoes can cause extensive damage!
6. Allow furniture to rest or drag directly on the floor without protectors on the feet or base. Use Floor Protectors & Glides on the feet and base of all furniture. Equinox pads & glides come in many shapes and sizes to fit all furniture and protect your floor from dents and scratches.
7. Use carpet runners or area rugs without a non-skid pad underneath. These types of rugs are great for minimizing wear and tear in high traffic areas but carpet backing is rough so always use a non-skid pad to protect the floor.

September 9, 2009 on 4:25 pm

How do I clean soap scum and mildew from the natural stone and grout in my bathroom shower?

For tough bathroom soap scum and mildew DuPont™ StoneTech® Professional KlenzAll™ Cleaner is an excellent solution because it will lift difficult stains without etching or damaging the stone surface. Use a sponge or microfiber cloth to apply cleaner to the surface, rubbing soiled areas. For the toughest stains, try a soft bristle brush. Mildew in the grout is sometimes hard to get rid of and may require a 50/50 solution of water and bleach if any mildew remains after you’ve used the DuPont™ StoneTech® Professional KlenzAll™. Be sure to rinse the area thoroughly with water when you are finished with this process. After cleaning, it is important to seal the area to keep the tile and grout looking good long term. Wait one hour after rinsing the stone surfaces before applying sealer. Seal with a water-based sealer tough enough to withstand the amount of use your shower gets, such as DuPont™ StoneTech® Heavy Duty Sealer.

Once you’ve gone through the effort to remove the stubborn soap scum and mildew from your shower, routine maintenance will be the key to maintaining the integrity of the stone. Clean frequently using DuPont™ StoneTech® Professional Stone & Tile Cleaner which is a stone-safe cleaner for everyday use. Avoid bathroom cleaners that are not specifically recommended for use on stone because they will etch and damage the surface.

Every few months, take a moment to notice how the water beads when your shower is wet. If water beads easily on the surface, you’re in good shape. If not, it may be time to reseal your stone. For more information about sealing and knowing when to seal, see our blog entitled, “When to Apply Sealer to Stone Surfaces.”

Important Note: Always read product labels entirely before using. Use only as directed. Test in small inconspicuous area to determine required dilution and results.

September 3, 2009 on 5:57 pm

The type of stone and application change but the question remains the same, “How often do I need to seal my marble floor (or granite counter or terrazzo bath)?” The answer to this question depends on a few factors- how the surface is used, routine maintenance and interior or exterior application. Before answering this question about frequency of applying sealer, first find out if your stone surface needs sealer?”

Simply place a few drops of water on your stone surface and wait 15 minutes. If the water beads up and wipes off without leaving a dark spot then your surface is well sealed. If the water absorbs into the surface then you need to apply Sealer. Sealer protects your stone from harsh cleaners that can damage the surface and it minimizes soils and stains. If you do get a stain, it is more easily removed from a sealed stone surface because the sealer reduces the absorbency of the stone.

Many types of sealers are available. The type of sealer you will use depends on the stone. DuPont StoneTech Heavy Duty Stone Sealer is recommended for use on Marble and Terazzo while StoneTech Professional Bullet Proof Sealer is recommended for use on Granite. All DuPont StoneTech Sealers are impregnated to penetrate into the stone for maximum protection and come with a product performance guarantee.

When stone-friendly cleaners are used for regular maintenance, sealer should last 3-5 years for an interior application. The water bead test can be done once each year to check for wear of the sealer.

If you’ve got questions about which product(s) to use or how to apply them to your stone surface, call 1-877-floorguy for answers.

Important Note: Always read product labels entirely before using. Use only as directed. Test in small inconspicuous area to determine required dilution and results.

September 3, 2009 on 3:32 pm

If you’ve ever spilled cooking oil on your granite (or other natural stone) countertop you know that it can leave a deep-set dark stain. The good news- there is something you can do about it…with just a bit of patience and a few supplies.

First clean the area so all dirt and finishes are removed (ammonia works well). Then use a product specifically designed to remove oil stains from natural stone surfaces, such as DuPont StoneTech Oil Stain Remover.. This Stonetech product is a paste that you apply as a poultice to the soiled area of your stone counter, approximately ¼” thick and going 1”- 2” beyond the stained area. This is where your patience comes in… you’ll need to wait 48-72 hours or until the poultice is completely dry before brushing it off with a soft bristle brush. If the stain is not completely removed, repeat the process. This process will remove the stain without leaving residue and with no discoloration of the stone. Once the stain is lifted, clean the area (and your tools) with mineral spirits (available in your local hardware store) then seal with a DuPont Stonetech Sealer, such as the BulletProof Sealer to minimize future stains. You may wonder if your entire counter needs Sealer. Check my blog about “Sealer for Stone Surfaces- Do I need to reapply?”. This should answer all your questions about Sealer.

You may find other, similar methods, to clean oil stains when you search the internet however most require you to mix ingredients together yourself which leaves room for error. Unless you’re a professional, you’re going to get better results with a product that is ready-to-use.

Important Note: Always read product labels entirely before using. Use only as directed. Test in small inconspicuous area.
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